Tuesday, 16 August 2016

Keyhole blouse

This is a simple sew pattern that I have remade several times making modifications each time.


The pattern has two views - one with a pleated front that I have yet to try. Both have a V-shape at the front and in the original version a bias bound neck that "closes the hole" to make a keyhole effect.

It's another easy to follow, minimal instruction simple sew pattern that came free with love sewing magazine.

I originally made it in the cream fabric with swallows on from sew over it exactly as the pattern said with the the bound neckline. I like how the blouse turned out but, with the neck binding, the shoulders are pulled in making it slightly narrow across my back.

Take two: 

For this version I used a fairly heavy weight linen effect fabric that's pretty stiff. I altered the pattern to give a bit more room across my shoulders. I also cut a front and neck facing to finish the neck edges off. I strolled a bit with the front V and actually ended put with a pleat in the front but I actually don't mind that too much. I took out the back pleat when I cut out the pattern as I thought that otherwise I would end up with far to much fabric in the finished top. For this version I chose 3/4 length sleeves and actually spent ages working out how to make it look like turned back cuffs - It involved a lot of backwards and forwards folding! for this version I used my new "overlock foot" to finish of the edges with a zigzag stitch. I love this foot for heavy weight fabrics it finished the seams so nicely. 


Take three:

This fabric is a super super light weight drapey viscose rayon fabric from Dragonfly fabrics with flamingoes on! I absolutely love the print although sometimes I wonder if it looks a bit too much like PJ fabric. This version is similar to version 2 except I tried to make the back more like a shirt by adding a shoulder section and then transferring the pleat to the bottom half - I think it works OK although I didn't think about the size of the top yoke bit and think it maybe should be a bit smaller? The neck edge this time I used bias binding that I folded in and top stitched down, this is my new favourite way of finishing edges especially in light weight fray-able fabric.

Take Four: 


This I think this is my favourite version. The fabric I bought in Hellerslea fabrics in Newport, whilst on holiday on the Isle of Wight. It's a viscose cotton with loads of drape and I absolutely love this shirt. The construction was pretty much exactly as take 3 but better because I knew where I was going with it rather than trying things out and unpicking loads. Also I used french seams to give the inside of the top a cleaner finish. Something I do a lot now with light weight fabrics.




Take five: 

This is a hybrid between the bias cut top  the latest sewing bee book "Stitch to Style" which I have made several times as a written but I wanted to use this material to make a long sleeved top. Since I really like the chevron effect when you cut stripes on the bias I used the pattern pieces from the bias cut top in the sewing bee book - there's a great tutorial from the thrifty stitcher for cutting the top to get the chevrons right - as a guide but adapted the shaping of the armholes so that I could use the keyhole patterns sleeves. I didn't think that a V-neck would work too well with the chevron effect so stuck with a scooped neck at the front. I used french seams and my favourite neck binding method as the material was another lightweight drapey viscose, this time from material magic in Leicester. The top is exactly how I imagined and I love wearing it tucked in to jeans with boots - not ideal for the current summery weather but I'm sure I'll get lots more wear out of it in the next few autumn months.

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